Licensing & download Do I need to buy a second license if I install Photomatix on another computer?One Photomatix Pro license entitles you to install and register Photomatix Pro on other computers you use. The same applies to Photomatix Essentials, the HDR Batch plugin for Lightroom, Photomatix for Linux, and the Tone Mapping Plugin for Photoshop.However, your Photomatix license is limited to one user. You will need to buy an additional license if you wish to install and register the software for another user (unless the other user is your spouse or close family member, as we make an exception in such cases).A license may be transferred to another user, provided the original user renounces to use the software and it from their computer(s).In the case of Photomatix Pro, Photomatix Essentials, the HDR Batch plugin for Lightroom and the Tone Mapping plugin for Photoshop, your license also entitles you to install and register the software on both Windows and Mac computers. If you bought a license for Photomatix Pro for Windows, for instance, you may install the Windows and Mac versions of Photomatix Pro, and register both with the same license key. See the FAQ on for more details on this. I haven't yet received my serial code, when will I get it?Your license information is emailed immediately after your payment has been processed.If you paid by credit card, the email comes from our reseller (sent from [email protected] or [email protected]).
Photomatix PRO 6.0.2 incl Serial Key Full Version Photomatix Pro: is a well known HDR photography software which also includes a Plugin for adobe Lightroom and much more.
If you paid via PayPal, it is sent from [email protected] you didn't receive this email, it may be due to a mail server delay or because the email was caught in spam filters.You can request your license key via our automated or by the Photomatix Support Team. My photo computer is not connected to the Internet. How do I install your software on it?Your computer doesn't need to be online to install Photomatix, as long as you have another computer with an Internet connection where you can download the software. Can I switch my Windows license to Mac? (or vice-versa)Yes. In fact, you do not need to switch your license, as one Photomatix Pro or Photomatix Essentials license allows you to install the software on another computer, regardless of its platform as explained.The license key you received after purchase registers both the Windows and Mac versions of the software, except in two cases: If you purchased a Photomatix Pro license before April 2007, or a license of the Tone Mapping Plugin (sold separately, i.e outside the Photomatix bundle) before October 2019. In these two cases, you will need to to request the license key for the other platform.When ordering online, you will see two separate purchase buttons depending on whether the license is for the Windows or Mac version of the software, even though the license is valid for both.
Knowing which platform you intend to use the software on helps us better support you, but doesn't restrict your rights to register Photomatix on both Windows and Mac computers. Is my Photomatix Pro license valid for Photomatix for Linux?Photomatix Pro is available for both Windows and Mac, but not for Linux at the moment.
The same applies to Photomatix Essentials.is a product separate from Photomatix Pro and Photomatix Essentials, and therefore requires a different license.However, we are making an exception in two cases. If you purchase a Photomatix Pro license and wish to use Photomatix on both a Windows/Mac and Linux OS, you are eligible for a free Photomatix for Linux license. The same applies if you purchased a Photomatix Pro license before Photomatix for Linux was released (10 July 2016). Please if you are in one of these two cases.
How do I upgrade to the latest version?You can upgrade to the latest version by downloading it from the and installing it on your computer. If you are on Windows, it is better to uninstall your current version of Photomatix before installing the new one.If you want to be notified when new major versions are released, you are welcome to subscribe to our.The upgrade to Photomatix Pro version 6 is free of charge for customers who purchased a license of Photomatix Pro version 5.0 or higher. If you need a new license key, please see the page. What is your upgrade policy?A Photomatix Pro 6 license purchased from the HDRsoft.com website allows you to upgrade for free to all sub-versions of Photomatix Pro 6.Additionally, a Photomatix Pro license for a given version allows you to upgrade for free to its next major version.
I uninstalled the previous version before installing the upgrade, and was not asked to enter my license key again. Is this normal?Yes. Uninstalling Photomatix Pro and Essentials only remove the components of the software, not your licensing information. Should I try Photomatix Pro or Essentials?Photomatix Essentials is particularly easy to use and intended for photographers new to HDR.Photomatix Pro offers more options for adjusting HDR Photos and includes advanced features such as batch processing and selective deghosting.
It also offers presets intended for real-estate photography, as well as a Lightroom Plugin to export photos to Photomatix Pro.Photomatix Essentials and Pro share the same internal HDR processing engines, but their interfaces differ. Photomatix Essentials focuses on simplicity, providing an easy-to-use introduction to HDR, while Photomatix Pro offers more options and features.If you buy a license for Photomatix Essentials, you can later on for just the price difference between the two products. I see Photomatix offered for very cheap on eBay, Amazon or elsewhere. Is this legal?No, it is definitely illegal.You will almost certainly get a stolen license key if you purchase Photomatix on eBay. You will for sure get a stolen license key if you purchase a so-called 'Open Box' of Photomatix Pro on Amazon when it is delivered without a box.
You will also receive a stolen license key if you purchase on Craigslist or websites selling cheap software.Please don't buy Photomatix from such sellers. Not only would you be rewarding thieves, but you wouldn't be able to get the upgrades you would otherwise be entitled to.Purchases made from sources other than our website or legitimate resellers are made at the buyer's risk and we assume no liability for those purchases.If you already purchased from a fraudulent reseller on Amazon or another reputable place, we recommend that you report the fraud to Amazon and request a refund. Compatibilities Does Photomatix work with Photoshop?Photomatix Pro and Photomatix Essentials are standalone applications, and therefore don't need Photoshop or another application to run.Images you create with Photomatix Pro or Photomatix Essentials are compatible with any image editing software. This means you can open and further process them in Photoshop if you need to.Additionally, Photomatix Essentials is also available as a Plugin for Photoshop Elements. Note that a Photomatix Pro license includes Photomatix Essentials. How do I know whether my OS is 64-bit?On Windows 10. Click on the Start button (the button with the Windows logo).
Choose Settings (cogwheel icon button) and click on 'System'. Under the 'System' section, choose 'About' and view 'System type'. If your OS is 64-bit, it will say '64-bit Operating System, x64-based processor'.On Windows 8. From Windows 8 'Start menu' click on the Desktop icon (lower left by default) to switch to the desktop. Hold the Windows key and hit the 'X' key at the same time, then select 'System' from the menu that appears. Under the 'System' section, view the 'System type'.
If your OS is 64-bit, it will say '64-bit Operating System'.On Windows 7. Click on the 'Start' button (the button with the Windows logo), then click on the 'Control Panel' menu option. In the 'Control Panel' window, click 'System and Security' and then click 'System'.
Under the 'System' section, view the 'System type'. If your OS is 64-bit, it will say '64-bit Operating System'.On Windows Vista. Click on the 'Start' button (the button with the Windows logo), then click on the 'Control Panel' menu option. In the 'Control Panel' window, click 'System and Maintenance' and then click 'System'. Under the 'System' section, view the 'System type'.
If your OS is 64-bit, it will say '64-bit Operating System'.On macOS:. Open your Terminal application (which you will find under 'Applications/Utilities'). Copy/paste the following command:ioreg -l -p IODeviceTree grep firmware-abi.
Press the Enter key. If the result includes then your Mac is 64-bit enabled. Tips & Tricks What camera do I need to get good results with your software?Photomatix works with photos taken under different exposures. To get good results, the exposures taken should cover the entire dynamic range of the scene.For most outdoors scenes, you can cover the dynamic range by taking three photos separated by two EVs (i.e. Two full stops), or five photos separated by one EV.Many digital cameras include an Auto Exposure Bracketing option that makes the process of taking several exposureseasier and faster.
If you select Aperture Priority and then use Auto Exposure Bracketing, the camera will automaticallytake 3 or more shots at different exposure times when you press the shutter release button.A camera offering Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) is therefore recommended for taking HDR pictures.Note, though, that your camera's AEB option won't be much useful for HDR shots if the maximum it offers is 3 shots separated by less than one EV (for instance, 0.7 or 2/3 EV). In this case, you would have to change the exposure times manually if you want to capture the dynamic range of a high contrast scene.To check the Auto Exposure Bracketing settings of a camera and whether it offers an AEB option, see the.A two-EV spacing is best for capturing images intended for HDR. However, a one-EV spacing is still OK if the cameracan take 5 or more frames with Auto Exposure Bracketing. Do I need to convert bracketed RAW files to TIFF before using Photomatix?The answer depends on your needs and preferences. It is better to first convert your bracketed RAW files, and then load the converted TIFF or JPEG files in Photomatix, in the following cases:. You need fine control over white balance adjustments. Chromatic Aberrations in your photos are particularly difficult to correct.
You are more interested in Exposure Fusion than HDR/Tone MappingWhen you convert your RAW files to TIFF or JPEG before loading them in Photomatix, you should systematically disable sharpening, as sharpening should be applied on the final image, not before. You should also ensure the Black is set to zero.If you are primarily interested in HDR/Tone Mapping, then you should also uncheck all tonal and exposure-related automatic settings.
That is, set to zero the Exposure setting but also settings for Contrast, Shadow and similar.If you are only interested in Exposure Fusion, then the reverse applies. It is better in this case to use the auto-settings of the RAW converter, or adjust them to your liking.Note that if you have Lightroom and Photomatix Pro, you can directly integrate Lightroom's RAW conversion with Photomatix via the free.If you need to use the intermediary 32-bit HDR file for image based lighting in 3D or special effects software, then it is better to load RAW files directly in Photomatix. This will ensure a better linearity and accuracy of the intermediary 32-bit HDR file. How many exposures should I take?The total number of exposures that you need to shoot depends on the specific scene. Each scene is different in terms of its contrast or its dynamic range, that is, the exposure difference between the darkest areas (shadows) and the brightest areas (highlights) within the scene.In every scene, you must shoot enough exposures to capture the entire dynamic range of the scene, which includes everything from the darkest areas in shadow to the areas in bright light.The total number of exposures required also depends on the Exposure Value (EV) spacing between each exposure, as detailed in the section. If you shoot your bracketed set of exposures in 1 EV steps (e.g., -1, 0, +1 EV), you will need more exposures to capture the entire dynamic range of a scene than if you shoot them in 2 EV steps (e.g., -2, 0, +2 EV). We recommend shooting in 2 EV steps (+/-2 EV) whenever possible.Most high contrast scenes fall into one of the following two categories.
A scene is considered high contrast when its dynamic range is too high for a camera’s sensor to capture in one photo. Average high contrast: Common outdoor scenes with less than ideal light. To properly capture these scenes, 3 shots at 2EV spacing (i.e.2, 0 +2), or 5 shots at 1EV spacing, are normally sufficient. Very high contrast: This could be an interior of a room with a bright view through the window, or an outdoor scene with the sun in the frame. In this type of situation, you will need at least 5 exposures at 2EV spacing, or 9 at 1EV spacing, and sometimes even more. Refer to the section on to determine the number of exposures. What is the ideal exposure spacing?Exposure Value (EV) is the value derived from an image’s shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
A change of 1EV is also referred to as a change of one 'stop'.When taking HDR bracketed photos, you should use a fixed Aperture and ISO, and adjust the shutter speed to change the EV.Increasing by one EV doubles the amount of light hitting the camera's sensors, and decreasing by one EV halves it. For instance, you can capture a range of 9 EV with shutter speeds ranging from 1/250 to 1 second (assuming a fixed aperture and ISO). If you set your camera to +/-1EV step increments, you will need 9 frames to achieve that range. If you set it to +/-2EV, you will need 5 frames.Use +/-2EV step increments if your camera has the ability to capture bracketed photos at 2 EV spacing. Using more than 2EV spacing, isn't recommended, though.A 2EV spacing has several advantages compared to an 1EV spacing. It requires fewer shots to span the dynamic range, and therefore reduces the risk of ghosting in non-static scenes.
It also reduces storage needs and makes for faster processing in Photomatix. On the other hand, an 1EV spacing -or lower- does have the advantage of better smoothing out noise when merging to an HDR image.
What is the best way to capture images for HDR?For average high contrast scenes (e.g., an outdoor landscape shot in the daytime with both sunlight and shadows), follow the steps listed below. For very high contrast scenes (e.g., an interior room with bright sunlight coming through a window), refer to the.
Set the ISO as low as possible. Set your camera to Aperture priority, and set the aperture for the scene, based on the depth of field you are trying to achieve or other considerations. Set your camera to Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB). If you are not familiar with the AEB functionality of your camera, see the or consult your camera's manual. Using the AEB option, set the EV spacing to +/- 2 EV if your camera supports it, otherwise to the highest EV spacing it supports. Select the Continuous Shooting mode on the camera to allow you to shoot the entire bracketed set of exposures with a single press of the shutter. Release the shutter to take the total number of images in the bracketed set.
How do I capture a very high contrast scene?Capturing a particularly high contrast scene, such as a room's interior with a bright view through the window, requires to take all shots needed to capture both the darkest and brightest parts of the scene.It is particularly important that the brightest image properly exposes the darkest part of the scene. Similarly, the darkest image should properly expose the brightest area of the scene.The steps listed below apply to any scene with very high contrast.
If you are taking real estate interiors with bright windows, see more specific instructions in the. Set the ISO below 400.
Set your camera to Aperture priority, and set the aperture for the scene, based on the depth of field you are trying to achieve or other considerations. Set your camera to Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB). If you are not familiar with the AEB functionality of your camera, see the or consult your camera's manual. Using the AEB option, set the EV spacing to +/- 2 EV if your camera supports it, otherwise to the highest EV spacing it supports.
Switch your camera’s to spot metering mode. Aim the camera at the darkest area of the scene and adjust the shutter speed until your camera indicates a correct exposure. This will be the shutter speed for your most overexposed photo. Aim the camera at the brightest area of the scene and adjust the shutter speed until your camera indicates a correct exposure.
This will be the shutter speed for your most underexposed photo. Optional: To check the shutter speeds you just measured, it is a good idea to take a photo for each meter reading and look at the camera’s histogram. If the histogram graph touches the left side, this indicates that there is lost shadow information. If the graph touches the right side, this indicates burned out highlights.
Using theenter the shutter speeds you measured in Steps 5 and 6. Switch the camera to Manual mode and Set the Shutter Speed determined by the HDR Exposure Calculator for the first bracketed set.
Select the Continuous Shooting mode on the camera and release the shutter to take the first set of bracketed photos. Take the other photos or bracketed photos determined by the HDR Exposure Calculator, if any. Note that you will need to use a tripod if you cannot cover the range with just one bracketed set. How can I get good results when shooting a room with a bright window?The dynamic range of the inside of a room with a view outside the window on a sunny day is particularly high, much higher than the dynamic range of a typical outdoor scene.The key to getting a good result with such scenes is to take enough exposures to properly cover the dynamic range.
In most cases, you will need at least five exposures spaced two EVs apart. If you take less, you may get washed-out highlights or noisy shadows due to 'holes' in the coverage of the dynamic range.The best way to make sure you have taken enough exposures is to measure the shutter speeds needed to cover the dark and bright part of your scene as detailed in the section on.Also, set the EV steps to +/- 2 if your camera allows it, but no more than 2 in order to ensure a 'smooth' coverage of the dynamic range. If your camera doesn't allow more than a +/- 1 EV increments, remember that you will need more exposures than with a two-EV spacing.When you then merge the shots to HDR in Photomatix Pro, we recommend trying both Exposure Fusion with the Fusion/Interior method and Tone Mapping with the Contrast Optimizer method.You can access these methods via the Process and Method controls (located above the sliders on the Setting panel on the left). Alternatively, you can access Fusion/Interior with the 'Interior' preset and Contrast Optimizer with the 'Balanced' preset.The Fusion/Interior method is particularly good at keeping a balanced and 'photorealistic' look, while still preserving highlights.
What is the best workflow: Exposure Fusion or HDR Tone Mapping?This depends on the dynamic range of the scene, the characteristics of the source photos and the effect you want to achieve. I am getting noisy results. Is there a way to avoid this?The Tone Mapping method 'Details Enhancer' enhances local details a lot. If the local details of your HDR image are noisy(you can easily see that in the HDR viewer), then the noise will be enhanced as well, unfortunately.To avoid too much noise showing on the tonemapped image, make sure to check the 'Reduce noise' box when merging the images.However, it is always a good idea to ensure you are taking the photos in the best conditions to keep noise as low as possible.
Here are two rules to follow for this:. Rule 1: Set a low ISO setting (ISO 100 or lower). Rule 2: Overexpose sufficiently, ensuring that the lightest image of your exposure sequence has its shadows in the mid-tones.When you process your images in Photomatix, you can reduce the effect of noise by using an Exposure Fusion method, such as Fusion/Natural (which you can also access by clicking on the 'Natural' preset). Processing your photos with Exposure Fusion can be an effective way of reducing noise, as the fused image will have less noise than the original source photos.If you are using Photomatix with a single RAW image instead of multiple exposures, the chance of getting noisy results is higher.
We therefore recommend to expose for the shadows by slightly overexposing your shot when you aren't taking bracketed exposures. How do I reduce/eliminate 'halo' or 'glow' effects with Tone Mapping?Assuming you are using the Details Enhancer HDR method, try to increase the Smooth Highlights setting (under the 'More Options' section), as this setting can be effective for reducing halos around objects placed against bright backgrounds. Other adjustments that may help are to lower the Strength or increase the Lighting Adjustments settings.Another option is to use the Contrast Optimizer or Fusion/Natural methods. You can access these methods via the 'Balanced' and 'Natural' presets respectively. Fusion/Natural is particularly recommended if you are looking for natural-looking results. Using Photomatix My camera does not shoot RAWs. Can I still use your software with JPEG pictures?Definitely.
Photomatix does not require images in RAW format. Photomatix is designed to work with photos taken under different exposure settings, and works great when those images are JPEGs.The important feature to look at in a camera is Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB), the ability to automatically take three or more exposures, preferably in. The higher the maximum EV step, number of auto-bracketed frames and frame rate speed, the better it is for HDR processing. When I load RAW files into Photomatix, why does it ignore my Camera Raw edits?The settings added by Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) in XMP sidecar files are parameters of the Raw conversion engine of ACR. As Photomatix doesn't have access to the proprietary technology of ACR's Raw conversion engine, it cannot use information set by ACR in the XMP files.The same applies to Adobe Camera Raw settings embedded in DNG files.In order to preserve the edits you made in Adobe Camera Raw, you will have to convert your RAW or DNG files to TIFF, and then process the TIFF files in Photomatix. See for more information on this workflow. Why does the size of the Photomatix output slightly differ from the size of the original RAW file in Photoshop?When you load RAW files directly into Photomatix, the Raw conversion is done by Photomatix, and the conversion process differs depending on the software doing it.The Raw conversion used by Photomatix tries to extract as many pixels as possible from the original Raw data captured by your camera's sensors.
For some camera models, this results in a width and height that are a few pixels more than the width and height you get when the Raw file is converted by other software.To avoid this, you would need to convert your original RAW files first in Photoshop (or other Raw conversion software you are viewing the Raw file in), then load the converted TIFF or JPEG files into Photomatix. The pixel size of the images produced by Photomatix will then be same as the size of the source images.Note that if you use the alignment option and need to overlay the Photomatix image with the original photos, you will have to leave the 'crop aligned images' box unchecked to ensure the size is not reduced. Does Photomatix do all the HDR editing in a DNG format like Lightroom CC/6 does?Assuming you are referring to the Floating Point DNG format used to store the result of merging to HDR in Lightroom CC, then the answer is yes. When Photomatix merges bracketed photos to HDR, the merged image is in a Floating Point format (a.k.a 32-bit HDR format) that preserves all information from the merged photos.By default, Photomatix doesn't save to disk the HDR image in Floating Point format after merging.
Instead, it lets you directly edit the HDR image and then save the edited file. An edited HDR image can only be saved in non-HDR format, such as 16-bit TIFF or JPEG.If you prefer to save the merged HDR image in Floating Point format before editing it, there are two ways to do that with Photomatix Pro:. The first way is to check the 'Show 32-bit unprocessed image' box on the dialog where you load the bracketed photos. Once you have merged the images (and before clicking 'Tone Map / Fuse'), choose File Save As. To save the 32-bit HDR image. The second way is to close the window that lets you adjust the Tone Mapping / Fusion settings and that automatically shows after the merge (unless you followed the first way described above). Once the window is closed, choose File Save As.
To save the 32-bit HDR image. To return to editing the HDR image, click 'Tone Map / Fuse'. What is the maximum file size that I can work with?The file size to consider for Photomatix is the size expressed in number of pixels, i.e. Width X height. How does your software handle color profiles?Photomatix processes the RGB values of your source images directly, without converting them to another color space. This means that images you create with Photomatix are in the same color space as the one specified by the ICC color profile of your source images.When a color profile for the source images is available, Photomatix embeds it into the resulting tone mapped or fused image.If you are using the Export to Photomatix Pro plugin for Lightroom, note that Lightroom will first export your images to TIFF before Photomatix can load them.
This means that Photomatix will use the color profile of the TIFF files created by Lightroom, which is Adobe RGB by default. To use another profile, see.In the special case when you have saved as Radiance the unprocessed intermediary 32-bit HDR file before tone mapping, Photomatix saves the name of the color profile in the header of the Radiance file. If you then re-use the Radiance file for tone mapping in Photomatix Pro and the saved name is sRGB, AdobeRGB or ProPhoto RGB, Photomatix will generate the corresponding ICC profile and embed it in the tone mapped image.Photomatix is color managed for the display, as well.
This means it will show the correct color values based on the ICC profile of the image and the color profile set as display profile for your monitor.On macOS, the display profile is set under System Preferences-Displays-Color.On Windows, it is under Settings-Control Panel-Display-Settings-Advanced-Color Management. Do I need to load the images in any particular order?No, you can load the images in any order, regardless of their Exposure Value.The process of merging to HDR makes it necessary to assign an exposure to each source image and Photomatix automatically retrieves the exposure information from EXIF data.
When the images do not have EXIF data, Photomatix estimates the EVs based on the brightness level of the source photos. Photomatix Pro also offers the option to manually adjust the estimated EVs (unless the program is run in batch mode). What are the differences between Exposure Fusion and HDR/Tonemapping?Both processes start from Low Dynamic Range (LDR) images taken under different exposures and both attempt to produce an LDR image that shows tonal details of the entire dynamic range captured by the multiple exposures.The differences are in the processes involved. Exposure Fusion combines the source photos in such a way that highlight details are taken from the underexposed photos and shadow details from the overexposed ones. The fused image is therefore a weighted average of the source images.Exposure Fusion has the advantage of being easy to understand and is familiar to photographers who are used to doing this process manually in image editing applications. Also, Exposure Fusion has the nice side effect of reducing noise.HDR Tone Mapping is composed of two steps.
The first step merges differently exposed photos to a 32 bits/channel unprocessed HDR image. Does Photomatix make use of dual and quad processors?Photomatix makes use of multi-threading in RAW conversion, image alignment, noise reduction, and processing with Details Enhancer, Contrast Optimizer, Tone Compressor, Fusion/Natural and Fusion/Interior methods.However, it is important to note that most processes of Photomatix are memory-intensive, which means that multi-processor support may not speed up processing times as much as one may expect. For a memory-intensive process, the bottleneck regarding processing times comes from memory accesses rather than a high number of operations (as the processor has to stay idle for many cycles, waiting for data to be fetched in memory).
Is it true that Photomatix converts RAWs to JPEGs for internal processing?No. Photomatix does not convert RAW files to JPEG for internal processing, and never did. It would not make sense to do this anyway, given that converting to JPEG would result in quality loss and add processing time.When you load RAW files in Photomatix, the files are converted in linear space into an uncompressed image with 16 bits per color channel, i.e. 48 bits per pixel.The only time Photomatix converts to JPEG is when you want to save the image created by Photomatix and choose to save it as JPEG. This applies to a tonemapped or fused image created by Photomatix, and not to the original image you loaded. Can I use your product for combining multiple scans?Yes, Photomatix can be used to combine two or more scans from the same film scanned under different exposure settings.
You may also try with scanned slides, but it is better to do it with negatives, as the dynamic range for film's negatives is higher than for slides.You will need to ensure that the scans have the same size before loading them in Photomatix. You will also need to check the 'Align images' option in order to correct for possible mis-registration of the scans. Technical issues & unexpected results Photomatix freezes when saving since I upgraded to macOS CatalinaA few users reported a freeze when trying to save in the folder they loaded their photos from.
The issue seems to happen more often when the photos in that folder had been dragged & dropped from an SD card.If this happens to you, then try one of the following workarounds to solve the issue:Workaround 1: Save the image in any folder other than the one containing the photos you loaded.Workaround 2: Load the photos via 'Drag & Drop' instead of the 'Browse' option.Workaround 3: If you are using Photomatix Pro, choose 'Preferences.' From the 'Photomatix Pro' menu, click on the 'Files' tab and set the 'Default loading location to' pop-up menu to 'Directory of last saved file' (i.e. 2nd item on the list).Note: If you are using Photomatix Pro, workaround 2 and 3 require Photomatix Pro version 6.2 or later. I get an insufficient memory error with exposure fusionAssuming you are running on Windows (if you are on Mac, please contact our support as such error would be unusual), this error can happen when fusing photos with the 32-bit edition of Photomatix Pro or Essentials. It may also happen with the 64-bit edition if your computer has less than 4 GB RAM.If your computer has 4 GB RAM or more, check first that you are using the right edition of the software for your computer. If your OS is 64-bit (see how to check this info), make sure that you are running the 64-bit edition of Photomatix.
If the title bar of the main program's window ends with '32-bit' rather than '64-bit', then you are running the 32-bit edition and the 64-bit one should then solve the issue.If your OS is 32-bit or has less than 4 GB RAM, there may still be some workarounds to avoid the issue:. If you are running other memory-hungry programs (e.g. Photoshop or Lightroom), close them while you are running Photomatix. If the photos you loaded are RAW files, then convert them to JPEG or TIFF 8-bit in your favorite RAW conversion software before loading them in Photomatix. If you are fusing 5 or more photos, check the EV-spacing of the photos. If your bracketed shots are spaced by 1 EV (i.e.2, -1, 0, +1, +2 for 5 photos) or less, then only load the -2, 0 and +2 photos, discarding the intermediary exposures. Note that if you are using the batch, you can let Photomatix automatically discard the intermediary exposures by using the second option in the 'Advanced Selection' panel.
I can't get sharp results with your softwareLack of sharpness on HDR processed images is often due to the use of Shutter priority or Program mode instead of the recommended Aperture priority mode when bracketing shots.If you set your camera to Shutter priority, the depth of field will change between the shots, and this will lead to inferior results on the combined image. There may also be vignetting issues, too.It is important to set your camera to Aperture priority when shooting with Automatic Exposure Bracketing (AEB). This way, only the shutter time will vary, and the Aperture (and therefore depth-of-field) will remain the same. The preview does not look the same as the final imageIf the final image looks less 'sharp' or 'crisp' than the preview, this is because the preview shows the image at a lower resolution than the resolution of photos from your camera. As the preview image is small, it can be displayed directly on screen, with one pixel in the preview corresponding to one pixel on your monitor.The final image, however, is too large to show in its entirety at 100% resolution. So, whenever you are viewing the final image at a resolution lower than its full resolution, the image is downsampled, with one pixel on screen averaging several pixels in the original image. This downsampling has the effect of making the final image appear less sharp.However, if the difference you are observing is not as described above, but is that the final image is substantially darker or lighter than the preview, this may happen with some images when using the Details Enhancer or Contrast Optimizer methods.
If you are using the Details Enhancer method with the Lighting Effects mode box checked, then enlarging the preview (by clicking on the + magnifier icon) to a size close to its maximum should avoid the difference. It may also help to set the Black Point and White Point to their default values (0 and 0.25 respectively) and ensure the Micro-smoothing setting is higher than zero. How do I transfer to Photomatix Pro version 5 my presets saved with version 3?This question is only applicable to the Windows version of Photomatix Pro, as the presets location did not change in the Mac version.In Photomatix Pro version 3 for Windows, presets you saved using the 'Save Settings' feature where stored in the 'Presets' folder of the directory where you had installed Photomatix Pro. If you installed it in the default location (and assuming you installed on a C drive), then the presets are in this folder:C:Program FilesPhotomatixPro3PresetsIn Photomatix Pro version 4 and higher, presets are now stored in your Application Data directory instead of the installation directory of Photomatix Pro. So, to transfer your presets from version 3, you will have to move the XMP files in the above folder to the following location depending on your OS:Windows Vista, 7, 8 or 10:C:UsersAppDataRoamingHDRsoftPhotomatixProPresetsWindows XP:C:Documents and SettingsApplication DataHDRsoftPhotomatixProPresetsWhere is the name of the user under which Photomatix Pro was installed. You changed the name of settings in the new Photomatix Pro version.
What were their names in older versions? HDR MethodOld nameNew nameChanged inDetails EnhancerGammaBrightnessVersion 6LuminosityTone CompressionVersion 5MicrocontrastDetail ContrastVersion 4SmoothingLighting AdjustmentsVersion 4Light ModeLighting Effects ModeVersion 4Highlights SmoothnessSmooth HighlightsVersion 4'Default' preset'Detailed' presetVersion 6Fusion/NaturalBrightnessExposure BalanceVersion 6MidtoneBrightnessVersion 6AccentuationStrengthVersion 4SharpnessLocal ContrastVersion 4Contrast OptimizerMidtoneBrightnessVersion 6. The alignment did not work with my imagesPhotomatix alignment is supposed to work in all cases of mis-registration due to camera movements between the bracketed shots. However, it may be necessary to adjust some of the alignment settings for images that are particularly difficult to align.To try other settings, click on 'Show Alignment Settings' and uncheck the 'Include perspective correction' box (or check it in case it was unchecked). If changing that option would still not make a difference, then try adjusting the 'Maximum shift' setting based on how much camera movement was involved.If changing the alignment settings doesn't help, we would be grateful if you could contact our to provide us with the images that Photomatix failed to align. This way, our engineers can use your images to reproduce the misalignment issue in order to investigate its cause and further improve the alignment algorithm. Note that even if adjusting the 'include perspective correction' option solves the issue, we would still be very interested in getting your images, as our aim is to have Photomatix 'guess' whether perspective correction is needed.
- Merge to HDR, Tone Mapping and Exposure Fusion - Automatic Alignment of hand-held photos - Automatic Ghost Removal and Selective Deghosting tool - Options for real estate photography - Automation with Batch Processing Benefits for professional photographers: - Saving on lighting equipment. No need to acquire expensive lighting equipment -and carry it- when you shoot high contrast scenes. Just enable the Auto Exposure Bracketing feature of your camera, and let Photomatix merge your photos into an image with extended dynamic range. - Great pictures on cloudy days. Shadowless hazy sunlight or an overcast sky usually results in dull-looking photographs. The tone mapping tool of Photomatix can turn them into great-looking images. Check out this image as an example. - Saving time in post-processing. Photomatix Pro is designed for productivity — automatic blending, unlimited stacking, easy comparison of results and batch processing save hours of masking and layers work in image editing programs. - Well exposed panoramas. A panoramic scene is almost always a high contrast scene — you can’t limit your view to areas with the same brightness when shooting a 360° panorama. By taking views under several exposures and processing them in Photomatix Pro, you can create a panorama that will show details in both the dark and bright areas of the scene. Photomatix Pro offers both exposure fusion (also known as exposure blending) and HDR tone mapping. More style choices for realistic results A new HDR style called Tone Balancer gives you more options for achieving a realistic look. You can access it via the 'Realistic' preset. Refining with more control over color With the new interactive Brush and Lasso tools, you can make color changes to just parts of the image by painting over those areas. You can also adjust the saturation, hue, and brightness of individual colors. Blending options If you want a more realistic look, you can blend your original photo with the HDR image. You can also use the brush and lasso tools to blend or replace specific areas with the original, or another exposure from the bracketed set. Straightening Tool If the horizon isn't level or vertical objects like buildings aren't vertical, you can quickly straighten your photo and fix perspective issues. The tool is part of the Finishing Touch palette. Requirements: Intel OS X 10.6 or later Home Page - https://www.hdrsoft.com/ Comments are closed.
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January 2023
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